Removal of rusty wire
If the rusty wire does not move even after several forceful punches with a hammer (Fig. 5 shows a rusty wire which just starts to move), one can try to treat the rusty wire some rust remover solution. It is best to apply the rust remover only onto one side of the rusty wire and then wait until it appears at the opposite side of the hole of the ceramic cap. This ensures that the rust remover went through the whole ceramic cap. Then you try again, if you can punch out the rusty wire. In most cases the rusty wires can be removed without rust remover. Some can only be removed with the help of rust remover and in a few cases it will not be possible to remove the rusty wires. In general when using this method only very few ceramic caps will break.
Using a pincer you first should pinch off any protruding wire. Subsequently remove from one side of the hole of the ceramic cap as much rust as possible down to the smalles diameter of the hole of the ceramic cap. This can be done for example using a small screw driver, such as the ones used by clockmakers. Fig. 3 shows this exemplarily by depicting a broken ceramic cap containing a rusty wire.
ceramic cap is put into the wooden mold with the rusty wire placed
exactly above the holed dirlled into the mold. The side of the
cap on which there has been removed part of the rust should
to the top. Now you place a pin puncher onto the rusty wire and
carefully hammer onto the pin puncher in order to force the rusty
out of the hole of the ceramic cap (Fig. 4). If you place one or two
layers of air bubble foil beneath the wooden mold, this reduces the
noice and helps preventing the ceramic cap from breaking. Most
this also preserves the surface of the desk onto which you are
and helps to prevent any trouble with your spuse.
During this work you should take care, that at the back of the ceramic cap the punched out rusty wire fitts into the hole drilled into the timber mold. Also the pin puncher used should not have a diameter bigger than the diameter of the hole of the ceramic cap.
Fig. 5. shows the back side of a ceramic cap treated as descirbed above. You can see, that the rusty wire has already been pushed out a little bit out of the hole of the ceramic cap.
show coross sections of a ceramic cap during removal of rusty wire
using a pin puncher. The pictures were "simulated" using a broken
ceramic cap with rusty wire insice. The finally removed rusty wire
partially has a glass-like shining surface (Fig. 9). This indicates
that the rusty wire has at least partially a very smooth surface,
as rough as one would imagine initially. The may explain, why the
procedure of pushing out of the rusty wire works.
most likely will not work with the type of square-shaped ceramic
bottle caps, which usually were used for mineral water, but which
example in Denmark were also used for beer bottles. Square-shaped
ceramic caps in general are much more sensitive to breaking, as
compared to Hutter-type (round-shaped) ceramic caps. Furhtermoe the
holes in square-shaped ceramic caps are smaller and are not
located in the ceramic cap, but at one end of the square-shaped
cap. For this reason I pesonally so far use the described method
for Hutter-type ceramic caps.
Removl of rusty wire has several advantages: